Also do a voltage drop test with an analog gauge at various points along the battery route.
And the grounds. The needle testers are better for this kind of problem.
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Originally posted by zij576ca View Post
Shorty, I appreciate you comments and thoughts on the issue. The only way we learn is by the sharing of ideas and experiences, one of the things this forum is great for. We have BK to thank for that.
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Point taken. That's why the cable from the starter relay to the starter is also double-ought as are the cables from the battery to ground and battery to starter relay. Asking a 20+ year old starter of questionable condition to fire up a high compression engine consistently with out issues is asking a lot. The tests and the starter's performance are leading me in the direction of a starter that's ready to be retired.
Shorty, I appreciate you comments and thoughts on the issue. The only way we learn is by the sharing of ideas and experiences, one of the things this forum is great for. We have BK to thank for that.
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Tell ya something else I happen to remember. Neighborhood Kid stopped by in his Ford Ranger. When he left he went to start like usual but the truck acted like it had a low charge in the battery. Tried putting a quick charge into it. That didn't work. Then figured it had a bad starter . That was wrong also. Turns out that the cable from the relay to the starter on that year & model would burn itself out from the inside without giving any indication. Point I'm making is this. Don't take the length of your battery cables for granted because they can give you the same like issues.
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It took a couple of days but I bought a battery tester and ran voltage, load and charging system tests/checks. Battery and charging systems check out o-k. Only thing left is to test the starter which I will do next time I take the car out for an extended drive.
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https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...y-testing.html Try the link. Don't know if you can buy online ,,,,,, but you can give it a try. Cheaper is always better.
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Originally posted by Shorty Thompson View Post
Simple test actually. Charge your battery full. Get a battery tester like this 1. Run a load on it . If it shows your battery's good , then I'd wait 5 minutes and let the tester cool, then hit it again without recharging and see what it says. Now then ! My daily driver would show something was wrong but still start the car, but ! if I didn't run any accessories, by the time I got home it seemed fine. Don't be fooled like I was.
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Originally posted by zij576ca View Post
Interesting that you mention that. My brother, a retired mechanic of 35+ years, also suggested that. Haven't done it as I don't have the requisite tool. Something I should/will do before spending money on a starter.
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Originally posted by Shorty Thompson View Post
You probably already have , but I have to ask any. Did you throw a load on it/them and retest right afterwards? My battery test good too. but the parts man did and it showed a bad battery.
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Originally posted by zij576ca View Post
Point taken. I did voltage checks over a 7 day period and the battery's voltage held steady at 12.5-12.8 volts.
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Originally posted by Shorty Thompson View PostDo not neglect the obvious of a bad battery. Had this same issue with my car thinking I had a started issue . As it turns out my battery was on it's way out.
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Do not neglect the obvious of a bad battery. Had this same issue with my car thinking I had a started issue . As it turns out my battery was on it's way out.
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Mine is also 20 odd years old and starters do wear out... The starter had been used on my race engine that had 11.4:1 compression.
Neglected to mention in my original post that the battery is in the trunk. What I've done so far ...
In an effort to improve on the grounding I've added a double ought ground from the battery to the frame. Under the hood I moved the ground wire from engine to fender well to engine to k-frame. If that doesn't improve the situation I'll be installing a new starter.
Thanks for your comments BK and bigblock_doc
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I'm still using a junk yard starter from a Dakota. Been 20 years and so far no problem.
I also have a 496 with 13 compression and Brodix B-1 heads.
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I'd get a Mopar Performance mini starter, terminal relocators, and starter wrap from Wes Sher at Mancinni Racing. Tell him I sent you and that you're a MoparWeb.com member - he might sharpen his pencil off retail. the combination of being further away from exhaust and a wrap will eliminate most of the heat soaking.
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